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                                                                                                         1 
                              B.Sc. COSTUME DESIGN AND FASHION 
                
                           FASHION DESIGNING AND SEWING TECHNOLOGY 
                                                             
                             UNITS                              PAGE NUMBERS 
                
                             UNIT 1                                     03 
                             UNIT 2                                     48 
                             UNIT 3                                     91 
                             UNIT 4                                    126 
                             UNIT 5                                    166 
                                                             
                                                      CONTENTS 
                                                             
                   UNIT NO.  LESSON                   TITLE OF THE LESSON                      PAGE 
                                  NO.                                                           NO. 
                   UNIT I           1       PRINCIPLES OF FASHION                                   03 
                                    2       FASHION PRODUCERS                                       15 
                                             
                                    3       FASHION DESIGNING & ACCESSORIES                         22 
                                             
                                    4       PRINCIPLES OF DESIGNING                                 40 
                                             
                   UNIT II          5       COLOUR                                                  48 
                                             
                                    6       COLOUR HORMONIES & APPLICATION                          60 
                                             
                                    7       DRESS DESIGNING                                         71 
                                             
                   UNIT III         8       SEWING MACHINES                                         91 
                                             
                                    9       SPECIAL MACHINES                                        99 
                                             
                                   10       SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMRNTS                            110 
                                             
                                   11       SEWING MACHINE CARE AND MAINTENANCE                   116 
                                             
                   UNIT IV         12       STITCHING MECHANISM                                   126 
                                             
                                   13       FEEDING MECHANISM                                     141 
                                             
                                   14       SPREADING                                             150 
                                             
                                   15       CUTTING                                               156 
                                             
                   UNIT V          16       MARKING                                               166 
                                             
                                   17       PRESSING                                              174 
                                             
                                   18       SEWING FEDERAL STANDARDS FOR SEAM                     181 
                                             
                                   19       SEWING FEDERAL STANDARDS FOR STITCH                   188 
                                             
                                   20       SEWING THREAD                                         199 
                                             
                                                             
                                                             
                                                             
                                                             
                                                                                                          
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                                                                                                                                      2 
                                                                                                                          UNIT – I 
                                                                              
                                                                     LESSON – 1: PRINCIPLES OF FASHION 
                  CONTENTS 
                        1.0         AIM AND OBJECTIVES 
                        1.1         INTRODUCTION 
                        1.2         FASHION 
                                    1.2.1   Fashion design terms 
                                    1.2.2   Areas of fashion 
                                    1.2.3   Fashion flow chart 
                                    1.2.4   Fashion in Cloths 
                        1.3.        CLASSIFICATION OF FASHION 
                                    1.3.1   Style 
                                    1.3.2   Basic or classics 
                                    1.3.3   Fad 
                                    1.3.4   Fashion Forecasting 
                                    1.3.5   Trends 
                        1.4         CHIC 
                        1.5         COSTUME MADE 
                        1.6         COLLECTION 
                        1.7         MANNEQUINS 
                        1.8         FASHION SHOWS: 
                                    1.8.1   Formal fashion shows 
                                    1.8.2   Designer trunk shows 
                                    1.8.3   Department fashion shows 
                                    1.8.4   Informal fashion shows 
                        1.9         FASHION CYCLES  
                                    1.9.1   Length of cycles  
                        1.10        LET US SUM UP 
                        1.11        LESSON END ACTIVITIES 
                        1.12        POINTS FOR DISCUSSION 
                        1.13        REFERANCES 
                                                                                                                                       
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                                                                                                                                   3 
                  1.0 AIM AND OBJECTIVES 
                        The aim of this lesson is to give better knowledge to students about the field of fashion & 
                  related terms and fashion cycles. 
                      Ø  Here we discussed all the area of fashion field which includes terms of fashion, fashion 
                           sources and fashion cycle. 
                      Ø  In fashion cycle point of view, it deals the principles of fashion, peak, decline, length of 
                           fashion cycle 
                      Ø  Fashion show and its type, fashion forecasting and classification of fashion will give idea 
                           about fashion. 
                  1.1 INTRODUCTION 
                        Fashion in the narrow sense of the world means the changing form of clothing. These 
                  originate from peoples need to be adorned and admired nut also allow the opportunity to enhance 
                  personal style or indicate a position in society. Fashion is not the only consideration in 
                  developing a garment for a market. The overall appearance (style) as well as the utility value 
                  (fitness for purpose, aftercare) also have. 
                        Here we studied about introductory concept of fashion, fashion terms and fashion 
                  forecasting. In this lesion we will go through another important function of fashion cycle, 
                  classification of fashion and fashion shows. 
                  1.2 FASHION 
                        Fashion is a term that usually applies to a prevailing mode of expression, but quite often 
                  applies to a personal mode of expression that may or may not apply to all. Inherent in the term is 
                  the idea that the mode will change more quickly than the culture as a whole. The terms 
                  "fashionable" and "unfashionable" are employed to describe whether someone or something fits 
                  in with the current popular mode of expression. The term "fashion" is frequently used in a 
                  positive sense, as a synonym for glamour and style. In this sense, fashions are a sort of 
                  communal art, through which a culture examines its notions of  beauty and  goodness. 
                  1.2.1 FASHION DESIGN TERMS 
                      ·    A fashion designer conceives garment combinations of line, proportion, color, and 
                           texture. He or she may or may not know how to sew or make patterns. Formal training is 
                           always essential, yet most fashion designers are formally trained (apprenticed) and 
                           schooled.  
                      ·    A  pattern maker drafts the shapes and sizes of a garment's pieces with paper and 
                           measuring tools, and, some times, an AutoCAD computer software program, or by 
                           draping muslin on a dress form, the original way. The resulting pattern pieces must 
                           compose the intended design of the garment and they must fit the intended wearer. 
                           Formal training is essential for working as a pattern marker.  
                      ·    A  tailor makes custom designed garments made to the client's measure; suits (coat and 
                           trousers, jacket and skirt, et cetera).  
                                                                                                                                    
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                      ·    A  textile designer designs fabric weaves and prints for clothes and furnishings. Most 
                           textile designers are formally trained as apprentices and in school.  
                      ·    A  stylist is the person who co-ordinates the clothes, jewelry, and accessories used in 
                           fashion photography and catwalk presentations of clothes collections. A stylist also is a 
                           designer whose designs are based upon extant things, trends, and the collections of other 
                           designers.  
                      ·    A  buyer orders stocks of clothes for shops, chain stores, and other types of stores. Most 
                           fashion buyers are trained in business studies.  
                      ·    A seamstress sews seams wither manually or with a sewing machine, either in a garment 
                           shop or as a sewing machine operator in a factory. She (or he) may not have the skills to 
                           make (design and cut) the garments, or to fit them on a model. A seamstress is not 
                           synonymous with dressmaker.  
                      ·    A  teacher of fashion design teaches the art and craft of fashion in art schools and in 
                           fashion design school.  
                      ·    A custom clothier makes custom-made garments to order, for a given customer.  
                      ·    A  dressmaker specializes in custom-made women's clothes: day, cocktail, and evening 
                           dresses, business clothes and suits, trousseaus, sports clothes, and lingerie.  
                      ·    An  illustrator draws and paints clothes for commercial use.  
                      ·    A  model wears and displays clothes at fashion shows and in photographs.  
                      ·    A  fashion journalist writes fashion articles describing the garments presented, for 
                           magazines or newspapers.  
                      ·    An alterations specialist (alterationist) adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually 
                           ready-to-wear, and sometimes re-styles them. NOTE: despite tailors altering garments to 
                           fit the client, not all alterationists are tailors.  
                      ·    A wardrobe consultant or fashion advisor recommends styles and colors that are flattering 
                           to the client.  
                      ·    A  photographer photographs the clothes on fashion models for use in magazines, 
                           newspapers, or adverts. 
                  1.2.2 AREAS OF FASHION 
                        Fashions are  social phenomena common to many fields of human activity and thinking. 
                  The rises and falls of fashions have been especially documented and examined in the following 
                  fields: 
                      ·    Architecture,  interior design, and  landscape design  
                      ·    Arts and crafts  
                      ·    Body type,  clothing or  costume,  cosmetics,  grooming,  hair style, and  personal 
                           adornment  
                      ·    Dance and  music  
                      ·    Forms of address,  slang, and other forms of speech  
                      ·    Economics and spending choices, as studied in behavioral finance  
                      ·    Entertainment,  games,  hobbies, sports, and other pastimes  
                      ·    Etiquette  
                      ·    Management,  management styles and ways of organizing  
                      ·    Politics and  media, especially the topics of conversation encouraged by the media  
                                                                                                                                    
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